myServer can now be used to upgrade your WakeSurf boat's technology.
Background: A year ago, I purchased a 2005 MasterCraft X45 WakeSurf boat. The original owner had purchased a new 2021 $225,000 WakeSurf boat. I asked: "Why did you upgrade?". He replied "The new boat has a Touchscreen...". Hmmm, we can do something about that...
In summary: The used boat needed some repairs to freshen it up. All are done.
The upgrades position the 2005 boat to have better technology and user experience than the newest boats.
The wake is excellent but I need some more experience to tune the settings once I have the control system all working.
Many more upgrades in mind.
Each project was done inbetween boating days and kept manageable so as not to affect the season's use. Each time we go out, there is another cool new feature to mess with :)
I figured there are now enough projects completed to start communicating about the experiences and approach.
YouTube Video of Allonis myServer Boat Control System
Features / Status
Add Power Management - Completed
Add myServer Controller - Completed
Add GPS speed - Completed
Add iPad user interface - Completed
Add ethernet network - Completed
Add WiFi connection to Boat House - Completed
Add DMX RGB lighting - Completed
Add custom SurfGate tabs - Completed
Add Control system for Trim Tabs - Completed
Raise Swim Platform - Completed
Add Rear Ladder - Completed
Add FAE (Fresh Aire Exhaust) System - Completed
Add Foam flooring - Completed
Add Piggyback Ballast tanks in stern - Completed
Add Control system for Ballast - Completed
Add IP Camera - Completed
Add MP3 local media server and player - Completed
Add two additional tanks in side compartments - Usable, almost complete
General Repairs
Trailer Brakes - Completed
Trailer Winch Upgrade - Completed
Trailer Light Upgrade - Completed
Trailer Tie Downs - Completed
Trailer Boat Guides - Completed
Underhood Sound Insulation Upgrade - Completed
Rudder Port Replacement - Completed
Speed Sensor Replacement - Completed
Prop Reconditioning - Completed
Fuel Gauge Sensor Replacement - Completed
Next Steps:
Develop Digital Dashboard user interface - In Process but functional for above features
Add mechanical switches to surf and mode controls - Wiring in planning
Ballast tank level - In process
Ballast water flow monitoring - Parts ordered
Add AI control of IP Camera - In Plan
Inclinometer - Just needs to be implemented
Add Surf personalization and automation of controls - UI just started
Stern Thruster - Under consideration
OBD2 Integration - Under Design
Rope Automation - Under Design
PerfectSpeed - Under research
System Description by Feature
Power Management
Since we will be adding a bunch of electronics, and the boat needs to support Modes: Docked, in Use, and Floating, added was an onboard charger (from my RV) that keeps the batteries full when the boat is at dock. The charger feeds a battery isolator to keep the two (future third) batteries independently charged. A Fuseable link was added for the new high amperage pumps and motors to be added. A Master Shutoff of the accessories was also added to quickly kill power if something goes haywire.
I also added a top of hull mounted electrical connector to conveniently plug the boat into the dock's 110v power. Lesson learned: Get a good one as the cheap one I purchased allows for water to wack my boat house's GFI every time it rains....so need to upgrade to a "real" marine connector and cord...
Network
Both a Wifi and Ethernet (wired) network were added to keep the devices in communication and control. Similar to the Power considerations, the Communication Network needs to work both when at Dock and when no Internet or house network is available (when on the lake or traveling). Here is a picture of how it all connects:
myServer 6 has an optional "Router" functionality that we use to connect multiple networks together. The Pi's built in ethernet port is used for managing the "Control Network" that relays, etc are connected.
The Pi also has a built in Wifi radio. This is used for connecting portable Wifi devices together on the boat...like a smartphone that can be used to control the boat's media and control systems.
A Ubiquiti UAP-AC-M-US $110 Wifi antenna was mounted ontop of the Tower. The sole purpose is to connect the boat via Wifi Mesh to the Boat House's matching Ubiquiti antenna. The Boat House is connected to the home network and Internet. This makes it super easy to manage the software configuration sitting at the house, testing the changes real time, and synching of digital content from Boat to House and House to Boat (add more music!). You can also float near the boat house and do Internet work while hanging out :)
The Wifi antenna, the iPad, the IP Camera (duals as a dock security camera) are all powered POE via the ethernet cables. The "Linovision" 8 port network switch (running on 12 volts) boosts the voltage up for the 802.3af POE devices to get the power they expect via Ethernet. I am currently using all 8 ports so will soon add another same Linovision 4 port switch.
myServer 6
Allonis's myServer 6 software running on a Raspberry Pi4 is the brains of the entire system and certainly the secret to success. This is stored on a 256 Gig 400mhz USB mini storage stick. This same stick is used for all media storage (.mp3, camera still pics, camera videos). myServer has a built in webserver that serves the user interface to any browser equipped device (like an iPhone / iPad / Android device / Windows PC, etc).
The user interface is defined with a Drag and Drop UI application called "myDesigner 6". This application runs on Windows and networks to myServer 6 where you can design your user interface with great detail and precision.
myServer 6 supports drivers that "talk" to the various equipment - like relays and DMX lighting equipment.
Automation Rules (Do "this" When "something" Happens) and Macros (sequence of instructions to follow) are defined and run on myServer 6.
GPS Speed
The X45 came with a Raymarine E26031 paddle wheel sensor that was originally broken. I replaced the sensor and got the OEM speedometer / PerfectPass operational. But I found it not too accurate. Modern boats use GPS and the PerfectPass can be upgraded (at considerable cost) to GPS. So, let's make our own...
A USB connected GPS radio was connected to myServer 6 Pi's USB2.0 port. The GPS antenna is then connected to the radio and is mounted topside to see the GPS satellites. Allonis wrote a custom Driver to "talk" to the GPS radio and create myServer Variables with current values like MPH.
The speed indication is now very accurate. It does float around a bit when the boat is docked, especially when under the boat hoist canopy. Something to tweek in software later but it's not that important. Down the road, we'll tie the GPS into the Allonis PerfectSpeed system...
iPad User Interface
myServer 6 is a Web Server. The iPad has the Safari browser. When you add a shortcut to your Home page on the iPad, it looks just like an "App" and runs the browser full screen. So, the iPad can then be a high resolution, great looking Digital Dashboard for the Boat.
Power / Data: We want to keep the iPad charged when docked. Allonis's power / ethernet POE adapter solves this. The POE networks switch sends power over the Cat 6 cable. The adapter then feeds both power and data to the iPad's Lightning connector. The ethernet connection makes the data connection solid compared to a Wifi connection. Wiring clean up still to do.
Mounting: An inexpensive mount was stainless screwed to the X45 dashboard and puts the iPad in perfect view. It does hide the gas gauge and voltmeter, but we can fix that later...
DMX Lighting System Description
DMX is a communication system used by professional stage lighting experts for fast, reliable communication to change lighting values. In the X45 project, we chose an "Art-Net Protocol" 4 Universe DMX controller (way overkill but I had one on the shelf) that converts a myServer command to a DMX signal. The DMX signal goes on a three wire network to a DMX RGB controller. The controller converts the digital DMX information into analog voltages that feeds the $60 Cupholder RGB LEDs and the Underwater Blue LED. The rest of lights on the boat can also be wired to the unused analog channels..but thats work for another day.
Now we can choose which light to control and with graphical sliders on the iPad control exactly what color we want. We can also save those light settings as Presets that can be manually clicked or even automatically set (If BoatMode = Undocked AND time = after 8pm, THEN turn on preset 1).
SurfTab Description
There are several folks on WakeGarage forum that have built their own trim tabs. For my project, I measured and then designed in a power point file, and then had a friend create a .step / .dwg files in CAD software that defined the parts to be cut. I emailed the .step file to a local water jet fabricator. I used 6061 3/16" aluminum to cut the parts. I made two sets. Cost: $796. The parts came in but the water jet Kerf was not set perfectly so all the slots had to be manually ground wider for the vertical fins to fit. Once all this tedious work was done, I clamped them together and TIG welded them. Post welding, I ground all of the exposed welds to look smooth.
Once the tabs were built, I mounted them with stainless steel hinges and hardware to the rear bottom of the boat. We carefully fitted the Lenco electric motors to the Stern and tabs and ensured that they cycled down about 25 degrees and maximum upwards with no sidewards / torsional loads on the motor shaft.
The Tab motors are just two wires...alternating the polarity reverses their direction. There is a mechanical clutch internally that allows the motor to spin even if the actuator is full range so the motor doesn't stall. But there isn't any data for current location. So, the Control System will use Relay On Timing to approximate the position.
Picture of Surfgate tabs during installation. Next up is installing the Lenco motors. Note the blue tape on the stern to mark the mount positions.
Here is a picture of the Trim control buttons. The furthest back runs a macro to set the trim tabs to "Regular" And the furthest forward for "Goofie". The middle button retracts both tabs fully. The buttons are wired to the relay sensor input connections. The relay controller sends the message to myServer on what Input went "Low" (to ground). myServer Automation Event engine then fires the appropriate macro like: surfgate.surf.port and surfgate.retract. You need to push the momentary button for a minimum of 1/2 second for the event to be captured. This helps minimize the chance of inadvertant pushes.
The holes were drilled with a hole saw. The panel was loosened and the wires run forward and joined with wires that run to the rear relay box. The buttons have LEDs and we'll consider running them on a DMX channel :)
Swim Platform Mods
Expected was the OEM swim platform would be dragging in the water when more ballast was added. The solution was to fabricate new mounts that insert into the OEM stern mounts but raise the platform 4" higher. This was created in CAD by my friend and water jetted and TIG welded with the SurfGate project.
Rear Stainless Ladder
Since the new platform is a little higher out of the water, I installed a collapsible stainless ladder to the underside of the platform to make ingress / egress easier for us old timers. Stainless thru bolts and washers to ensure the ladder never leaves the platform. $60 upgrade plus about an hour of install time.
Fresh Air Exhaust Upgrade
Most all new WakeSurf boats have an exhaust system that dumps the exhaust into the water, and not above the water. This is important so your surfer isn't breathing Carbon Monoxide while having fun. It also quiets the exhaust noise which makes it nicer to communicate in the boat and to the surfer / boarder. The OEM fiberglass muffler was also replaced with simpler stainless steel "mufflers" (they are really just pipes welded a the correct angles) on the inside of the motor compartment. This opened up more space for the new Ballast System.
The FreshAirExhaust was fitted to the new mufflers and are a Y shape. The system went in very easily and all bends / lengths were perfect. Taking careful measurements before ordering was key. The Exhaust now exits directly behind the prop and works great! Sure, I could have welded it all up on my own, but that would take a LONG time. Worth the $920 and the 2 hour installation.
Foam Floor Upgrade
The old carpet was snapped down to the fiberglass flooring. The carpet backing was breaking down and leaving rubber crud in the floor. The carpet also never dries (with an active boat). So, out goes the carpet and snaps. I sealed the snap screw holes with 3M marine caulking. The flooring was custom ordered Light Grey / Medium Grey and manufactured by www.aquamarinedeck I also provided them some custom graphics to be added to the project. $1322 shipped.
The fiberglass was cleaned with Acetone really well. The new flooring was taped into place. I note that most of the long panels were actually a bit short so I spread the issue front to back. Pull the 3M adhesive backing off and tack the flooring down. Carefully smoothing down from centerline out to push any air bubbles out. Pull more backing down. More flooring down until complete.
Looks MUCH nicer. But, I note that it does get dirty easily from shoe traffic. New rule: barefoot or boat shoes only.
Ballast System Description
The X45 came with Bow, Port and Stern hard tanks. With good quality reversible brass pumps with 1" water lines. Check Valves and a distribution manifold. I replaced the stock impellers with aftermarket ones to freshen up the pumps. One pump also needed a new "skateboard wheel bearing" replacement.
I decided to add additional water weight by putting plastic rectangular tank ontop of the OEM stern tanks. I happened to have two tanks perfect for the new role that came from my motocross trailer originally for power washing the bikes. They could not be a tighter fit to install. Great to repurpose the 30 year ole tanks. I considered bag tanks that could fit more water, but I really wanted the hard tanks for future water level automation precision.
Also, plan was to upgrade the water lines to 1 1/2" and upgrade the pumps to the newest Johnson Talulah 250lb/min reversible brass pumps ($300 each). I have repurposed another stock pump that is planned to feed a Bag Tank that will sit on the floor if max wake is wanted.
The plumbing took a long time and MANY trips to TSC, HomeDepot and Menards as no company had all the right parts. I had about $1000 of plumbing parts and hoses all over my shop floor trying to find the magic of the right combination of available parts to fit and accomplish the goals. Most of the unused parts were returned :)
Here is a diagram of the Plan:
And Pictures of the Implementation:
Here is how it works:
Currently there is one intake that goes to the OEM gate valve. Currently I am only using one pump at a time. This will change in the near future. This then goes to a 1 1/2" check valve (allows water to flow into the manifold, not out). The manifold then distributes water to the pumps. The pump then draws the water from the manifold and pushes it into the tank(s). When the pump is reversed, the water pushes against the intake check valve, and then opens two check valves that allow the water to flow out to new 1 1/2" stainless fittings on the boat sides to empty the tank water back to the lake. All is scaled so the high volume pumps can't pressurize the system if the tank is full.
Electrically, the new pumps consume 30-50 amps of 12volt current. Which is beyond the original X45 relay system. So, I purchased relays intended for reversible winches rated at 125 amps. I control these high current relays with low current control relays (more on that later).
All pumps and the manifold are mounted on plastic 1/2" board that is stainless screwed to the Stern.
Since the lower OEM tank (1" lines) is lower than the pump, and also lower than the top tank, I put a 1 1/2" brass motorized 3 way valve to control which tank the single pump is filling or draining. Filling wasn't the problem. But for Draining, the 1 1/2" Top tank would certainly drain faster, which would then allow for air into the suction line to the pump. The 3 way valve cures this problem without causing a flow choke point. The 3 way valve is controlled by the Control relays. Three wires: Ground, Bottom Tank (default valve position) and Top tank when the relay is energized. Once the valve reaches its travel limit, it stops consuming electricity, even when the Control Relay is still on.
I added two additional soft ballast tanks in the under seat compartments. I plumbed additional 1 1/2" water lines from the manifold up the sides of the hull and connected them to the 1" threaded fittings on the bottom of the soft tanks. I still need to plumb 1 1/2" vent lines to ensure the bags can never pressurize (and break) the fiberglass compartments from overfilling. Need to order two more outlet fittings. For now, I am reusing a 1" brass reversible pump that the X45 came with.
Ballast Control System
Picture of relay box. On the box lid are the control relays. On the bottom are the high current reversible winch relays for Ballast pumps and Trim Tabs. There are circuit breakers around the outside edges of the box.
Now that the basics of the Ballast Control System are in place, planned is to add Flow Meters and Level sensors to fully automate the system.
Ballast fluid level sensors
The original three OE ballast tank level sensors have not worked. In describing the issue to Centroid Products, here is their recommendation on cleaning the sensors:
"
CLEANING WATER SENDERS
Centroid's water senders (cgwp-...) are only designed for potable water. That's because water with 'stuff' in it (salt, rust, holding-tank goo) can leave a conductive coating on the sender's sense wire, keeping the reading from going down to Empty.
Here's how to try cleaning a water sender:
--Unwrap the ground wire from around the outside of the tube
--Take the outer tube off the head by rotating clockwise and counterclockwise slightly while pulling (it's a friction fit)
--Use a wet Brillo pad to clean the white teflon-jacketed sense wire. You dont have to baby it, but dont gouge the teflon either
--Tie a small piece of sponge to the center of a wire. Feed the wire through the outer tube and pull the sponge back and forth through the tube for a while to clean the inner walls of the outer tube
--Before putting the sender back together, make sure you get an Empty reading________ with the sender powered outside the tank. If not, the problem is likely something other than the cleanliness of the sense wire and tube. Email for advice.
--Put the outer tube back on the head, and rewrap the outer wire
--If you wet the sender and pull it back out, the reading should get back to Empty within a couple of minutes_______ as the wire drains. That would mean the wire and tube are clean and the water doesnt have *too* much crud in it."
I will give that a try when I get the sensors out of the tanks (again).
I also purchased new sensors for the piggyback new tanks. There are sized 1/2" shorter than the inside height of the tank.
Here is Centroid's thoughts on integrating the capacitance level sensors with myServer 6 controller:
"
For computerized displays, I'd rather you use our E0/F5 volt output. Our resistance output is designed for the higher currents of needle gauges. You wont be able to measure the ohm accurately with an ohmmeter. The sender needs to be powered to create an ohms reading. That puts a small voltage on the output, which confuses the small voltage that ohmmeters use to measure ohms. A good way to tell whether ohms are being measured accurately is to switch the polarity of the test leads-- if the reading changes, clearly it's not accurate since a resistor would measure the same both directions.
If you prefer to use your E240/F33 ohms, use a 47 ohm pullup to regulated 5v at the PI's input for converting ohms to volts. That's a small enough resistance value to have current similar to a needle gauge."
I will give that some testing and post back.
SurfGate Control System
As mentioned, the tab motors pull around 20 amps of current. So, myServer 6 connects ethernet to Allonis's "myRelay8" IP relays. These relays then are wired with a common 12v+ wire to the heavy duty Winch reversible relays. The output of the Winch relays feed the tab motors reverseable polarity high current 12Volts.
myServer is programmed to close the appropriate relay for the correct amount of time. Full up to down takes a bit under 4 seconds. So:
"Bump Down Macro" shuts OFF the Up relay (for safety to know both relays aren't both on which would electrically short the relay) and then On the Down relay for one second X 4 times and the tab is fully down. A myServer variable is updated with each "Bump" to graphically aproximate the current position.
"Retract Macro" raises both tabs to the "known Up" position and all variables are also reset.
"Trim Macro" drops both tabs 4 seconds (25 degrees) down.
"Goofy" drops the Port tab and raises the Starboard tab.
"Regular" drops the Starboard tab and raises the Port tab.
"Surf Macro" raises the tabs and once GPS speed shows underway X mph (settable), the tab drops to the preset position for the boarder and activity.
This will very soon be enhanced to set the system for a particular Rider, for their desires and their current wake side that can change dynamically. First step is to add manual buttons that will feed the IP relays that have sensor inputs. myServer will 'see' that input change and tell the tabs what to do in that situation.
IP Camera
A "Linovision" rebranded HikVision 4MP Pan / Tilt / Zoom system was added to the underside of the tower top bar, next to the Wifi antenna. It is powered by the special POE network switch. Heck of a deal at $110 that is now $380. Good quality photos and movies using Allonis's new IPCamera WebRTC / Onvif software drivers.
Click on the iPad screen to Pan / Tilt / Zoom in and out. Click the Snapshot button or the Start Recording / Stop Recording buttons to memorialize the fun. Saves the photo / movie to the 256GB USB drive. Viewable on the iPad, or anyone's connected smartphone. The files automatically synch to the Home NAS drive for long term saving when the boat docks to the home's WiFi network.
GoPro's will be supported soon due to their popularity but my system does more automation with the Pan/Tilt/Zoom features.
Media Control System
Since myServer 6 is historically used mostly for media control (Sports Bars, Restaurants, Homes, etc), this one was "easy". I installed Emby software on the Pi. Emby is a powerful media management database application that myServer 6 integrates with. Installed on a DIN rail is Allonis's myAudioPlayer on a Pi Zero W that has a HifiBerry stereo audio card "hat". This is then a DLNA audio player that can be controlled by myServer's MediaPlayer DLNA driver. The PiZeroW is connected to the network switch using a USB to ethernet adapter so the myAudioPlayer is on a reliable cable connection to the system. You can use a Pi3 or 4 as well, but the PiZero consumes very little current so why not.
The myAudioPlayer audio outputs are simple stereo RCA jacks that I connected to the AUX connections on the X45 OEM radio system. Note that the myAudioPlayer also now support Bluetooth...so you can connect your Phone and stream your personal music to the system too. Modernizes all music needs.
The myServer 6 user interface on the iPad then manages what you are listening to, and how loud.
Pi4 with 256Gig Boot drive running Allonis's myAudioPlayer software. Fan Hat and Hifiberry audio Hat. RCA jacks connect to the AUX audio input of the "car" stereo. Mounted to a DIN rail adapter.
Trailer Brakes
Ok, not as interesting a topic as some of the Upgrades, but essential. On first trip home, noted was lots of forward / backwards slop during accel / braking accomponied by a thump. On examination, the original brake master cylinder was filled with mud and rust. Researching parts, the original part was no longer available. Ends up, the whole swivel trailer tongue needs to be replaced to switch to a still in business manufacturer. Thankfully a custom made part was available to make the job easy.
Parts / Tool involved: 4" Swivel tongue $280, Master Cylinder $442, flexible hose connection to trailer hard lines, new bleed screws, air power bleeder tool, Dot 3 brake fluid.
The job was straightforward. Remove old parts, clean everything, flush old lines and wheel cylinders with solvent and air pressure. Put master cylinder in the new tongue, grease swivel, install tongue, connect hydraulic line, bleed system.
I also got a magnetic surge brake lockout to allow the trailer to be backed up without applying the now working brakes. I did get the electric solenoid brake master cylinder that stops the hydraulic fluid during reverse, but I haven't hooked that up to the tow truck yet. So, the magnetic limiter stays in place while I tote the trailer around my property.
Trailer Winch
The old winch was ready to fail. Upgraded to a higher lbs rated two speed winch by Fulton FW3200101 for $152. Just mounts to the original base. Easy upgrade.
I had considered opting for an electric winch on to make it easier (with a remote control) to get the boat straight on the trailer without a second person. I opted not as I have a different tow vehicles that then would need to be wired to support the winch (unless an on trailer battery was fashioned).
Trailer Light Upgrade
Just swapped the old bulb light housings to new sealed submersible LED bulbs. 10 minute cheap $29 upgrade. Highly recommended project.
Underhood Sound Insulation
Common with older boats is the foam used by the OEMs to reduce sound deteriates and starts falling into the bilge / pump. The old foam was scraped off of the fiberglass motor lid. Cleaned with degreaser. New "Dynamat" type of material was cut and adhered into place. While I had the hood props off, I upgraded the stainless crews a size to make the attachment a bit stronger. Looks much better than OEM!
Rudder Steering Cable and Port
On first wakesurf runs, the steering cable broke. Ok, order a new cable and install and all is happy again. But then I noticed a steering wheel vibration at certain speeds. I put the boat on the trailer and gave the rudder a tug. A fair amount of slop in the Port was noticed. Researching, the part is no longer available and you have to buy a port AND a rudder now...So, DIY project.
I took the old port out: Take the rudder tiller off, unscrew the four mounting screws. I then fashioned a pipe through the port opening, put a pipe coupler on top and slid a 10 lb work out weight on the pipe under the boat. Another pipe coupler on the bottom. This made a slide hammer that a few drops of the weight downwards broke the adhesive seal on the rudder port which then fell out of the boat.
I took the part to my buddy who owns a local machine shop. Plan is to make a few and sell them. Doing the machining setup is the time, not the actual lathe time. A couple weeks later, the material was procured but machining had not started. Then, I found MC Parts Depot who now makes the part 2080B...bought that for $150 and installed and fixed. Told my friend we are a little late to sell so hold off on machining. The old port didn't have a grease fitting - very likely the main cause of failure was no lubrication. The new one does.
The replacement is simple...just clean all parts, grease and press the new bushing assy into the brass Port with a hydraulic press. Clean, dry and degrease boat inside and out, put some 3M marine adhesive around bolt holes as a gasket (not too much - strong adhesive!). Bolt in. Put new grease fitting in, put rudder and tiller together. Grease and adjust steering cable length. Test and Enjoy.
In retrospect, the port really doesn't need to be removed from the boat now that a replacement part is known to exist. The next time, just put a correct sized socket on the bottom of the bushing, use a floor jack under the socket and press the bushing into the boat. Clean, grease, replace bushing using a threaded rod with nuts and washers on both sides to press the new bushing into place....
Speed / Temp / Distance Sensor
The paddle wheel was broken so speedo never worked. Researching this is ended up with a Raymarine E26031 for $100. Hardest part was making sure the wiring was correct as no wiring diagram for either the boat or the sensor was provided. Hint: Take pictures BEFORE taking stuff apart. Ends up the paddle wheel is seperately replaceable. Need to buy one. Neat design is the thru hull fitting has a little trap door that keeps the boat from flooding when you pull the sensor out. Included is a dummy plug to fill the hole while you dink around soldering wires on the new sensor. I did the replacement on the trailer so didn't need to leverage those features.
Prop Reconditioning
The tips of the prop had gotten scuffed up a bit from the previous owner. Last year, I used the "hammer On" technique to straighten the ends which worked nicely for a while. But there were a few nicks that straightening doesn't fix. So, with the Rudder Port out, I unbolted the prop bolt (used a 2x4 inbetween the prop blade and bottom of bolt to hold the prop while untightening) and used my prop puller to break the tapered fit. Local prop shop rebuilt and rebalanced the prop for $200. Cleaned the shaft and inspected the shaft bushings and reinstalled. Easy Peasy.
As a side benefit, the boat came with a spare reconditioned prop...ends up that wasn't for this boat so I sold it for $250 on Facebook Marketplace.
Fuel Gauge Sensor
Yesterday my friend asked how much fuel I have used this year so far. I told him I started with a full tank from the previous end of season winterizing and put 18 gallons in from portable gas jugs. Gauge said a little less than half a tank. Post wakesurfing with the kids, we were puttering around the lake and I noticed the motor stumble. Very unusual. Gas Gauge now said Zero! Shut the motor off and called a neighbor for a gas delivery. 6 gallons later and all is good again. Now I need to research a better designed gauge sensor...
Certainly the new sensor will be integrated with the myServer 6 Control system.
I called Centronics who manufactured the original Fuel / Water ballast sensors for Mastercraft. They advised that in 2005, fuel didn't have Ethanol. And because the sensors use Capacitance, Ethanol messes with the original manual calibrations (there are two screws to manually calibrate the empty and full levels).
Since 2005, Centronics created and "auto calibrating" sensor that when you top the tank off, it senses that level, reads the current capacitance of the fuel, and tweeks it's internal settings. As you use fuel, then the remaining fuel is assumed to be of same Ethanol percentage and the Level sense will then be accurate for that tank of fuel. Each time you fill up, it auto calibrates for the new tankful (if you switch from pump to Recreational (no Ethanol) fuel)
So, the new sensor is installed (about $80 - well worth it) in about 20 minutes (one wire connector, 5 screws).
Next step will be integrating the 0 - 5 volt return voltage to myServer for fuel tracking on the Digital Dashboard.
Please read and agree:
The Allonis LLC Boat Control system is designed solely for use with water ski, wakesurf and wakeboard boats operating under calm conditions with supervision, with driver in full control at all times, also utilizing a spotter and all other safety crew and requirements applicable to water sports and general boating. Allonis's myServer 6 Control system should not be used for any other purpose or under any other conditions. Your decision to proceed with installation is conditional upon you assuming all and any risk and losses related to use of this system. Both purchaser and/or anyone utilizing the Allonis myServer 6 Control system acknowledges that their purchase and or use of this device is conditional upon them releasing and forever discharging Allonis LLC and team from any and all liability for any injuries or losses or any other claims, demands, losses or causes of action, whether occurring prior to, during, or subsequent to or directly or indirectly connected with the use of the Allonis myServer Control System, and whether caused by any persons negligence or otherwise. In other words – while by mechanical design myServer 6 is not able to increase speed above what boat operator sets by mechanical handle – please proceed at your own risks.